I jolted awake as the plane touched down with a jarring thud, the icy runway beneath us sending a shockwave through the cabin. My breath caught in my throat, like waking from a nightmare, the sudden reality of where we were hitting me all at once. For months, we had meticulously planned the final surf trip for filmmaker Nate Laverty’s latest project, Creatures of Habit. We wanted somewhere cold, remote, and far from familiarity—somewhere that would break us out of our conventional routines and push our limits, both physically and mentally. When a hurricane swell appeared on the forecast for Canada’s East Coast, we knew this was the moment we had been waiting for.

Nova Scotia’s unforgiving climate, with its bone-chilling winds, makes you question why you’re standing on the rocky shoreline, staring out at the relentless Atlantic. But for professional surfer Pete Devries, the East Coast is familiar territory. At the age of 40, with over two decades of free surfing experience and a lifetime spent chasing waves around the globe, Pete was eager to return in search of another cold-water destination with uncrowded waves. “It had been six or seven years since my last trip out here. It’s fickle and tricky, but the waves are just so inviting. The cold is no joke, though,” he admits.

Joining us on this journey was Reed Platenius, who, at half of Pete’s age but towering over him in height, embarked on one of his first major free surf trips. Fresh off a busy year on the Qualifying Series, where he claimed the top spot in the World Juniors division for North America, Reed was ready to experience the raw, untamed surf of Canada’s East Coast. For him, this was a chance to break away from the competitive grind and immerse himself in the adventure of free surfing.

Nova Scotia, with its rugged coastline, offers a surf experience that’s both exhilarating and punishing. The environment is as unforgiving as it is beautiful, with frigid waters that demand not only skill but resilience. The Atlantic Ocean here isn’t just cold—it’s relentless, with icy swells that can catch even seasoned surfers off guard. “To get good surf here in the winter, you have to fight an invisible wall of cold and brutal wind. Sea temperatures hover just above freezing, and the wind chill takes air temps well below,” says local surfer Adam Tory. “Ask anyone getting out of the water on these days and they’ll probably tell you it was worth it, but they also might be crazy…”

The challenge of finding the perfect wave is compounded by the region's volatile weather, where conditions can shift from promising to perilous in mere minutes. The coastline is dotted with rocky outcrops and secluded bays, making the search for waves a challenging endeavour, to say the least. There’s a certain solitude in surfing Nova Scotia—far from the crowded breaks of more temperate regions, you can often find yourself alone, or with just a handful of locals, battling the elements.

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“Surfing in those types of conditions is far from fun. It’s less surfing and more survival. I kept having to force myself to go in, not because I wanted to, but because I’d lose my toes and fingers if I went any longer,” explains Reed. “It would take over two hours sitting next to a heater just to get your body temperature back to normal. I have so much more respect for the locals over there who endure those unexplainable conditions all winter long.”

For those who brave it, the reward is immense. The waves here are powerful, clean, and uncrowded, a stark contrast to what we’re used to on the West Coast. “It makes surfing back home feel almost tropical,” says Pete. But the path is fraught with challenges: from the cold that seeps into your bones to the fierce winds that can turn a promising session into a white-knuckled fight against nature. “The harsh reality of surfing Nova Scotia in the winter really hit me on this trip. The same wind that clears the skies and cleans up the waves after a storm cuts right through you,” Pete describes. “The morning dawn patrol is downright frigid with windchills into the -20s and ice freezing to your hood post-duck dive on the colder days.” Surfing in Nova Scotia isn’t just about riding waves; it’s about conquering the environment, a testament to the raw and wild spirit of the mighty Atlantic.

Despite the harshness of the environment, the warmth of the local surf community in Nova Scotia is undeniable. The locals, well-versed in the challenges posed by their rugged coastline, always seem willing to lend a hand or share their knowledge with visiting surfers like us. Nova Scotians are proud of their surf scene, and that pride is coupled with a generosity that makes newcomers feel instantly welcome. Local legend Nico Mano, owner of Lawrencetown Surf Shop, invited us into his home, offering shelter from the cold and a chance to thaw out in front of a roaring fire and a delicious homemade breakfast. Stories were swapped, laughter shared, and a sense of camaraderie was built that transcended the chill in the air. “They welcomed us with open arms, and I’m so grateful for that,” Reed expressed.

The challenges of the environment are met not just with individual grit but with a collective spirit that’s deeply embedded in the local culture. In a place where nature can be so harsh, it’s the warmth of the community that truly makes Nova Scotia special. “Nova Scotia has such a vibrant surf community. It has grown since my last visit, but the good vibes are still the same. The crew that surfs throughout the winter are some of the most dedicated surfers in the world, in my opinion,” claims Pete. Six-millimetre suits, lobster claw gloves, 8mm booties, constant heat blasting in your car, hot coffee, Crocs for the walk up the point, surf robes, hot water bottles, and many other little hacks were passed along by locals so we could get the most out of those fickle and frigid sessions. The locals don’t just survive in this environment—they thrive, and they’re more than willing to help others do the same.

Nate envisioned a theme centred around breaking out of our comfort zones, but we found ourselves slipping into familiar patterns, surfing whenever the opportunity arose. “Wouldn't you know it? All those nooks and crannies we had studied on the maps went unseen as we walked the same rocks at sunrise to surf the same wave we’ve always returned to since our first trips out here. I guess that’s a testament to the inspiration behind the film...” Nate remarked. Despite this, he was still able to capture the clips and content he needed and more to make the movie whole. His eye for detail and passion for storytelling shines through in every shot. Creatures of Habit will be set for release this fall and is already touring.

Scoring waves in Nova Scotia is a unique emotional journey, where the payoff is far greater than just the waves we surfed. It’s a feeling of triumph earned through patience, determination, and respect for the untamed elements. The anticipation builds as you navigate the challenging conditions—icy winds, unpredictable forecasts, and isolation. Each element tests your resolve, making every good wave feel like a hard-earned victory. The power of the Atlantic propels you forward, and for those few moments, you’re entirely in sync with the ocean, and the sensation is unlike anything else. The cold disappears, replaced by a surge of adrenaline and pure joy.

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The solitude here allows for a deep connection to the ocean, a chance to reflect on the journey that brought you to that moment. Every wave you score in Nova Scotia feels like a personal achievement, a testament to your perseverance. Afterward, the elation lingers, tempered by a sense of gratitude. You’re grateful not just for the wave but for the entire experience—the camaraderie of the local surf community, the beauty of the landscape, and the knowledge that you’ve been part of something special. Scoring waves in Nova Scotia isn’t just about surfing; it’s about embracing the journey, the challenges, and the emotions that come with it.